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Spain

Almodóvar & Kitchens: “Julieta”

Almodóvar must have grown up in a kitchen. It’s clear from his liberal use of them and food in his movies. I recently had the chance to sit down and carefully watch for a second time “Julieta”, his movie based on a series of short-stories by Alice Munro. I am a big fan of reds, bold prints and yes, I admit a bit of kitsch, so no wonder his kitchens always attract me. It is especially interesting since in Spain, traditionally kitchens are not open plan so the fact that Pedro packs so much action into them is pretty interesting.

If you look closely at his films with an eye out for food you can find both sensuality and repression. One of my favorite examples of the latter is the burnt chicken prepared by Gloria (Carmen Maura) in the 80’s film  “What have I done to deserve this” that seems to channel all the anger of the Franco years repression against women. This is one of my favorite Almodovar films, but it’s very dark and angry and the kitchens depressing… so let’s turn our attention to a more contemporary and airy film like Julieta.

The film is visually joyful but sad. It’s an example of terrible bad luck and reminded me of the daughter in the book American Pastoral by Philip Roth who joins a Jain sect. As a mother, the theme of loss in Julieta is unshakable. In some ways it’s worse than death. It’s rejection and hatred. Julieta’s pain became my pain and in a very small way stayed with me. I loved the movie because it’s simple: love and loss, nothing else, no S&M, no rape or incest (prominent topics in his other films).

There are many kitchens in this movie. The first one is Julieta’s minimalist kitchen in Madrid. Apart from some splash of red on the wall, the kitchen is not the one of a cook or someone who is a big eater. It has some weird magnets on the fridge as the only concession to playfulness. Wine features prominently but there are no spices or pots on display. You can assume she eats out a lot and drinks wine and coffee at home. The break-up scene with Lorenzo occurs right there in the spartan kitchen. It’s a heartbreaking scene because he really does not know why is he being shut out. Darío Grandinetti, the masterful Argentinian actor, is good in the role of soothing lover but Almodóvar missed out on all his comic strengths that can be seen in other movies like “Wild Tales”and “Despido Procedente” both Argentinian/ Spanish films. Just imagine Darío in one of Almodovar more comic films like “Women on the Verge”. He would be perfect no?

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Julieta’s kitchen in Madrid

The kitchen in Xoan’s house is a reflection of family and heritage. It’s not an expensive kitchen rather it feels like a Spanish 80’s kitchen. If you look at the tiles, there are shells and fish. The shell is the shell of Saint James, patron saint of Spain and Galicia where Xoan lives. It is in Galicia in Santiago de Compostela where his remains lay. So the shell signifies Galicia, the Camino de Santiago, strong heritage, the simple seafood and the fishing that Xoan so loves and is his metier.

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Xoan’s kitchen in Galicia

Next to the kitchen there are ceramicpieces from Sargadelos, the ultra famous Galician ceramic manufacturer. The pieces are immediately recognizable and Almodovar has featured them in other movies like “The Skin within me” with Antonio Banderas, another movie that features Galicia. I imagine the Sargadelos  pieces are wedding presents from Xoan’s first marriage or family heirlooms. The first time we see the kitchen when Julieta arrives in Galicia there is a “botijo” on the kitchen table.. If you don’t know what a “botijo” is it’s an old-fashioned clay water cooler. I always associate it with a joke I was told when I was a little girl, that made me sad.

A father asks his child to bring him el botijo and the kid responds “Why Dad? Are we moving?”.

This joke is representative of the post-war when Spain was a very barren and poor place. It of course implies that the botijo is their only possession in this world.

I love this kitchen with the spectacular view of the sea, the blue tiles and the red patterned table cloth. There knicknacks everywhere. It feels like there is a lot of life in the house. It is in this kitchen that Julieta prepares a “tortilla”, or omelette  on the night that Xoan dies.

The third kitchen is close to my heart as it has a strong Andalusian feel. Julieta’s Dad lives in a small town and his kitchen is refreshingly white with masonry units. There are lots of colorful vegetables from the orchard and decorative curtains to hide the pots and pans. There are also a lot of preserves which you see a lot of in this movie but that in my Andalusian experience are not that common. Preserving is not a big hobby unlike places like the US Midwest or the UK.

Beatriz, Antía’s friend, has a beautiful and glamorous vanilla apartment in Madrid. No wonder she ends up working for Vogue. The kitchen is modern and functional and has a uniformed domestic helper. The 90’s in Spain saw a big increase in domestic helpers thanks to Zapatero’s open immigration policy. Beatriz’s mom has a tea set that although beautiful it does not really match with the modern aesthetics of the house.

Julieta and Antía’s kitchen in Madrid is the last one. It is painted blue and yellow and in it we find again the Sargadelos ceramics that were in the house in Galicia. One of the only material objects that Antía  brought back from her last visit to Galicia. Once again, it’s a real kitchen and it looks lived in. It is one of the last scenes where we see the mother and daughter together. It made it very poignant the second time I saw this movie.

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Julieta & Antía’s kitchen in Madrid

As a small aside, note how Julieta’s cakes for Antía’s birthdays are never home-made like other more baking friendly countries like the USA. Julieta very likely bought the cakes in Mallorca, the most popular cake shop and cafeteria in Madrid as is customary in the city. We see 3 cakes: a framboise gelatine one, a chocolate almond one and a fruit and almond one.

Next up kitchens in “Kika”.

Categories
Spain

Cervantes Classes Dublin

I am very excited about my upcoming classes for Instituto Cervantes here in Dublin. The Spanish Commercial Office will be collaborating with us so there will be unusual products and great regional wines.

You can find the links below.

The first one will focus on Spanish charcuterie. I will be using tv ads, economic trends and history to take you on a trip of the significance of charcuterie in Spanish culture.

https://www.facebook.com/events/332826327162741/

The second one will focus on cheese which is vastly underrepresented here in Ireland. We will talk about traditional sayings, regional differences and why Spain has some very exciting and incredibly different cheeses compared to other countries. Come prepared for some wild (but typical pairings) like strong blue cheese Cabrales with anchovies, and some cheese and olive oil ones.

https://www.facebook.com/events/115327489132758/

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Categories
Food Olive oil Spain

Extra virgin olive oil tasting

For anyone with a background in cooking, extra virgin olive oil is a fascinating topic. I have always lived my life close to the olive tree, since it was my Grandmother’s only income apart from her widower’s pension (she would sell her olives to an olive press), my mother’s sister and her husband ran an olive oil lab and I spent childhood summers in Guadix hanging out in our caves *(this are homes built into clay hills) in the middle of olive tree fields. My first love was olives and later in life, extra virgin olive oil. My love of olives is such that I even got married in an old olive press and am convinced there is no better food than great toasted bread with extra virgin olive oil.

Through my work for a food importer in Chicago I have seen chefs become olive oil evangelists overnight such is the power of this historic food product. I have worked with prestigious Spanish brands and cooked through gallons of oils but always felt I needed to learn more about olive oil.

The moment I read about Escuela Europea de Cata de Aceite de Olive, I knew this was a gastronomic destination I could not miss. Located in one of Madrid’s hippest neighbourhoods, Chueca and stone throw away from metro station, the school is on a small side street.

I’ve been to enough cooking schools and worked and ran quite a few, so I knew immediately Mar Luna means business. From the documentation to her gravitas, there is zero bullshitting. Mar is a petite woman with a “big voice” who speaks freely about the good, the bad and the ugly of state of extra virgin olive oils.

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Her class was challenging and fast paced. This not a class for hedonist looking to taste yummy oils as there will be quite a few with defects that are less than flavourful but thought provoking. Here is the link to our class here.

*look out for a post about food of the caves of Granada coming soon!

Categories
Articles Recipes Spain

Spanish Tapas in China

Tapas

I set myself the challenge to recreate a tapas meal using only Chinese ingredients except for a tin of anchovy filled olives and chocolate and shopping at only one supermarket, Carrefour. I had just cooked a dinner for charity at the Shangri La Presidential suite and I wanted something simple that did not involve ordering food from Beijing or running around Metro, Ikea and Sam’s Club or fantasizing about unavailable gourmet products when building a menu. I thought “Make it work”! Don’t stop yourself from making a fun dinner, just substitute for local ingredients.

I started by making “revoltillo” the uber-popular snack that includes sunflower seeds, dried broad beans, dried corn and dried garbanzo beans that is the cheapest tapa one can get. I mixed sunflower seeds, dried broad beans and toasted peanuts and it worked quite well. You can add more things to the mix if you please. Spaniards love sunflower seeds just as much as Chinese people do!

The tortilla or Spanish potato omelet I replaced with a ready-made fried potato cake.

I included two recipes that you can cook in a flash: the Catalan spinach and the garlic shrimp. The spinach (normally served alongside fish) I served on toasted bread and replaced the pine nuts with peanuts.

The tomato skewers were made with smoked tofu and tomato instead of expensive cheese. The 5-minute garlic shrimp recipe I did not modify since you can get all the ingredients easily here. And finally the “piece de resistance”, I fried frozen you tiao (you can also buy them ready-cooked) and served them dusted with icing sugar and a chocolate sauce.

For your party lay out all the tapas at once and give everyone little plates. Get some nice beer or wine and play some Gyspsy Kings on the background. Get colorful plates (you can get cheap ones from the Japanese restaurant supply shop at Dalian Kitchenware City or the Korean Market) and some cocktail napkins.

churros

Tapas

[row][onehalf animation=”animationType”]Olives
1 tin of anchovy filled olives
Place in a bowl
[/onehalf][onehalf animation=”animationType”]Revoltillo
1 cup of sunflower seeds
1 cup of toasted or fried peanuts
1 cup of broad beans toasted
Mix together and place in a bowl
[/onehalf][/row]
[row][onehalf animation=”animationType”]“Spanish Omelette”
1 potato cake from Carrefour
Cut and place on a plate
[/onehalf][onehalf animation=”animationType”]Tomato and tofu skewers
15 toothpicks
15 cherry tomatoes
1 packet of smoked tofu, cut in small pieces similar in size to tomatoes
Cilantro
Place tofu first, then tomato and then cilantro on a toothpick. Repeat until you have 15.
[/onehalf][/row]
[row][onehalf animation=”animationType”]Garlic shrimp
3 tbsp of oil
6 cloves of garlic, chopped finely
500 grs of fresh shrimp, peeled
3 tbsp of chopped parsley
salt to taste
In a wok heat oil and add garlic and shrimp. Stir fry until just cooked through.
Scatter with parsley and season with salt.
[/onehalf][onehalf animation=”animationType”]Catalan Spinach
1/2 baguette sliced and toasted
3 tbsp of vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 bunch of spinach, washed, stems cut and chopped
5 tbsp of raisins
5 tbsp of chopped peanuts
salt to taste
In a wok, heat up the oil and add the garlic. Stir fry until cooked and add the spinach with the raisins and peanuts. Cook until wilted. Season with salt. Serve on slices of bread.
[/onehalf][/row]
[row][onehalf animation=”animationType”]“Spanish Churros” with Chocolate
1 frozen pack of you tiao
½ cup of milk
140 grs. of 70% chocolate, chopped
icing sugar for dusting
Put milk in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add chocolate, turn off heat and let it melt. Whisk. Put in a little bowl.
Fry the you tiao, take out and place on paper towels to drain.
Cut into bite size pieces and dust with icing sugar. Serve with chocolate sauce for dipping
[/onehalf][/row]

Thanks to our guest food stylist and photographer Shirley Gao, and prop stylist Karen Brown!

Categories
Articles Spain

Romesco Sauce

When one thinks of Spanish food, tapas always come to mind. These little morsels, served with drinks, are what define Spanish eating. Ferran Adria, our most famous chef, says that “more than food; Tapas is a way of life”. As a Spaniard I love sitting or standing in crowded bars; whether eating a traditional, perfectly fried eggplant with cane honey or drinking an avant garde shot of cherry gazpacho with frozen cheese. With tapas you don’t stand still in one place, but you move from bar to bar and define your own itinerary and menu.

In some provinces, tapas are free with your drink; in others you pay.

Anything can be transformed into a tapa: olives, potato salad, stuffed piquillo peppersor meatballs.

Romesco sauce, a mix of roasted tomatoes, hazelnuts and bread lifts any roasted vegetable. Try this recipe at your next barbeque.

Romesco

Asparagus with romesco sauce

Serves 4

  • 5 canned tomatoes
  • 1 roasted pepper
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 40 grams whole blanched almonds
  • 40 grams hazelnuts
  • 2 slices of baguette
  • 1 small dried chili pepper, soaked in hot water
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon sherry or wine vinegar
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 500 grs of asparagus, steamed, roasted or barbequed

Put the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium to high heat and add the almonds and hazelnuts. Take out and set aside and then add the bread. When it’s golden brown, remove from the heat and leave to cool.

Cut open the soaked pepper and scrape out the seeds with a spoon, then add this to the food processor or blender along with the garlic and nut and bread mixture. Add the tomatoes, pepper and vinegar, then pulse the whole lot to a chunky paste. Adjust the seasoning.

Serve with the asparagus.