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Thriving in a Chinese Kitchen (Jan 2015)

Now that you have the right cookbooks and the right utensils to cook Chinese food let’s examine what ingredients you should stock up on if you are novice. Finding bottled or canned ingredients can be a struggle especially if you can’t read Chinese characters so that is why I am concentrating on these. Don’t be afraid to bring a list and show to the shop or market assistants.

  • Sesame paste: used in Dan Dan Mian and in countless other recipes.
  • Sesame oil: use to finish off fish and stir-fries.
  • Sweet bean sauce: goes by many names including Hoisin. It is made from soybeans and it is sweetened.
  • Sichuanese chili bean sauce: made from soybeans and chili
  • Cooking oil: rapeseed, peanut or sunflower
  • Potato flour: key ingredient to thicken sauces
  • Dried shiitake mushrooms: umami flavoring in many recipes.
  • Smoked tofu, silken tofu, firm tofu: versatile and cheap. They absorb all the flavors.
  • Chili oil: drizzle over dishes
  • Sichuanese peppers: unexpected numbing and tingly lemony flavor.
  • Star anise: one of the most used spices in the Chinese kitchen.
  • Chinese wind dried sausage: the key to amazing fried rice
  • Chinese wheat noodles: different texture (chewy) to other wheat noodles.
  • Dried shrimp: Used in vegetable stir-fries to provide flavor.
  • Fermented black beans: earthy and salty ingredient. Provides a lot of flavor.

If you are new to cooking Chinese food these are dishes I would recommend to start off with, scrambled eggs with tomatoes, zhajiang noodles, sesame noodles, stir fried mushrooms, ma po tofu, dan dan noodles, egg fried rice, chicken with black bean sauce and cabbage with dried shrimp.

Zhajiang Mian is one of our staple family meals these days. My daughters, whom are two and four years old, eat it miraculously in silence; one wolfs it down with little chopsticks.

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Zhajiang Mian
Serves 4

  • 2 tbsp. of peanut oil
  • 300 grs of minced pork
  • 1 tbsp. ginger, chopped
  • 1 green onion, sliced
  • a splash of Shaoxing wine
  • ½ cup hoisin sauce
  • salt
  • 400 grs. wheat noodles
  • various vegetables: cucumber, cabbage, carrots, peas

Put the oil in a wok and heat up. Add the pork and sauté. Add the ginger, green onion and the wine. Add salt, hoisin sauce and water to cover the meat. Cook for 20 minutes at low heat until the liquid is reduced. Sauce should be seasoned with salt generously. Julienne the vegetables. Blanch the carrot, cabbage and peas. Cook the noodles. Serve noodles with meat sauce and vegetables on top.

*special thanks to Karen Brown our prop stylist.

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Shrimp & Grits

The Southeast of the United States is a land of culinary wonders. For a foodie with an interest in culture and heritage there is no better place than Charleston in South Carolina.

Charleston an architectural gem is the type of place where everybody is a gentleman and a lady and where oyster roasts (a barbeque of sorts) are every weekend affairs.

The palate of Charlestonians is renowned and they are experts at creating culinary delights out of superficially common ingredients like collard greens, crab and corn.

This type of food, called Low country is heavily influenced by the Caribbean and West Africa via the slaves that worked in that area. For a foreigner, this land and its bounty are totally unexpected. We ate our way through trays of fresh oysters, shrimp and grits, she-crab soups, boiled peanuts and of course the layered fluffy coconut cakes.

Sean Brock, a chef on the tip of everyone’s tongue has his base here and his restaurant Husk is refined and easy going at the same time. We loved the chicken skins with maple syrup, the cornbread and the pimento cheese.

Shrimp and Grits

Shrimp and Grits

Serves 4

Ingredients

Grits:

  • 1 cup yellow cornmeal
  • 1 cup vintage cheddar, shredded
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 chili, seeded, diced
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • Salt and pepper

Shrimp:

  • 3 slices of bacon, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 500 grams large shrimp peeled, deveined
  • 1/4 cup beer
  • 1/4 cup chicken stock
  • 2 tablespoon chopped green onion

For grits:

Bring 3 cups water to a simmer in a large saucepan. Gradually whisk in grits. Stir for a couple of minutes and add water if too thick. Stir in cheese, butter, and chili, then cream. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

For shrimp:

Heat a skillet and add bacon until fat begins to render. Add garlic and butter. Add shrimp and cook until pink. When garlic begins to brown, add beer and chicken stock. Simmer until shrimp is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Serve grits with shrimp and green onions on top.

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Articles China

Thriving in a Chinese Kitchen (Nov 2014)

Cooking like the Chinese can be extremely rewarding, fast and easy on the pocket; even if only a couple of times a week! Armed with a cleaver, a chopping block and a wok you are ready to go. But where do you learn to cook Chinese food in Dalian? Unfortunately there are no schools or catering colleges for foreigners.

This is where getting your hands on a few good Chinese cookbooks comes in handy, but with over 2,400 on Amazon which ones are good?

Food writer Ken Hom’s books are a wonderful introduction to Chinese food, the recipes veer slightly towards restaurant food, but his step-by-step pictures compensate.

Yan-kit So’s “Classic Chinese Cookbook” is timeless with great photography and both sophisticated and simple recipes. This book introduced Chinese food as haute cuisine to the West. Use it to impress your friends.

If you are a visual person with an interest in food history the tv series “A Bite of China” on CCTV is simply breathtaking.

My most used Chinese cookbook “Chinese Cooking Made Easy” by Shyh-Pwu Tien, was given to me by a friend from Singapore. It was written for Taiwanese and Chinese students struggling to cook Chinese food in the US in the late 90’s. This book has made many a trip to Chinese grocery stores. There is nothing in this book that you can’t cook.

But if I had to choose only one book it would be Fuschia Dunlop’s “Every Grain of Rice”. She has previously written well-researched books on Hunanese and Sichuanese cuisine and is probably the West’s foremost expert on Chinese food. She really shines in her latest book, which fills a gap on the shelves of Chinese cookbooks by dealing exclusively with home-cooked food (like scrambled eggs with tomatoes). The recipes are easy, well written and her sections on ingredients are instructive and inspiring.

Smoked Tofu

This recipe is inspired by her book.

Smoked tofu, red pepper and crunchy soybean stir-fry

  • 3 tbsp of peanut oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • a dash of soy sauce
  • 1 red or green peppers, sliced
  • 1 bunch of Chinese chives, trimmed and cut into bite size pieces
  • 1 packet of smoked tofu, sliced
  • ¼ tsp five spice powder
  • 1 handful of toasted soybeans

Add the oil to the wok and heat. Add the garlic, stir-fry briefly and add the soy sauce. Add the peppers and chives and stir-fry. Add the tofu and five spice powder. Serve in a bowl and sprinkle toasted soybeans.

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Lentil Salad

When travelling in France don’t just concentrate on the Michelin restaurants with their haute cuisine; get into the bistros and cafes with their traditional food and local clientele.

The repertoire of French regional food is vast and can often be challenging to cook. It is not surprising that many chefs have left their Michelin starred establishment to launch rustic bistros with fixed price menu options. In these establishments the food is heart-warming, belly filling and most importantly it offers the visitor a glimpse into the type of classic home-cooked food that, alas, you will not find in many homes any more. If you need a guide, look for Patricia Well’s book “The Food Lover’s Guide to Paris”.

A rich cassoulet (a dish of duck confit, white beans and sausages), a bubbling potato and celeriac gratin, tangy leeks in vinagraitte and tender Coq au vin are all well worth a bite. But in the spring and summer “lentilles en salade” can be unexpectedly delicious. Lentils are deservedly popular for their earthy taste, cheap price and healthy attributes; they come alive in salads such as this one.

Lentil Salad

Lentil salad with goat cheese, beets and rocket

Serves 4

  • 300 grams of green French lentils
  • 330 gram jar of cooked beetroot
  • 140 gram container of Chavroux goat cheese or feta
  • 50 gram packet of rocket

Dressing

  • 3 tblsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tblsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp dijon mustard
  • sea salt and ground black pepper

Wash the lentils and put them in boiling water, simmer for 20 to 25 minutes until done (they should be a little chewy).

Make the dressing by mixing the ingredients.

When lentils are done, season with a little salt and drain.

Wait for them to cool down.

Mix the lentils with the dressing. Put lentils on plate and place beetroot, goat cheese and rocket on top.

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Articles China

Thriving in a Chinese Kitchen (Sep 2014)

People who seem to cook out of thin air always surprise us, but the undisclosed reason for their success is a well-stocked pantry.

Here in China food shopping can be stressful, especially at the beginning when you don’t know where to shop and what is available. Metro, Carrefour, Ikea and local markets are all great options. Japanese store Jiu Guang has an amazing meat section, where meats are cut to suit all tastes, whether it’s thinly sliced, cubed or ground.

Apart from my weekly shopping for vegetables, fruits and meats these are ingredients I always have at hand.

  • In my freezer I have frozen salmon from Ikea, peas, shrimp, corn and homemade ice cream and granita.
  • In my fridge; butter, eggs, parmesan, capers, miso, pickled ginger, kimchi, Sichuan peppers, oyster sauce, dried shrimp and Chinese style sausages for fried rice.
  • In my larder you will find rice, pasta, canned tomatoes, sesame oil, rice vinegar, curry pastes, extra virgin olive oil (check the dates), tomato sauces, canned tuna, canned coconut milk (great for curries and smoothies), green dried lentils from Carrefour, canned cannellini beans, chocolate, coffee, flour, sugar and condensed milk (which you can boil to make caramel sauce for banoffee pie).
  • For spices I stick to Chinese; star anise, cumin, Sichuan pepper and cassia bark. Spices can be a bit tricky to find and I would not recommend buying those big bottles of spices from Metro (especially the ground ones). Those bottles are for restaurants with a high turnover. Sadly they will go off quickly and taste like sawdust.
  • For some interesting treats I have Petit Ecolier chocolate cookies, fig jam for cheese and elderflower cordial from Ikea to make great gin and tonics, gelatins and drinks.

This granita is really a “cupboards bare” dessert. You can also make it with different fruits.

Espresso Granita

Espresso Granita

  • 2 cups espresso
  • 4 tbsp sugar, or more to taste
  • ½ cup of sweet whipped cream
  • 2 tbsp grated chocolate

Place the espresso and sugar in a small saucepan and heat over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Taste, and if it seems too bitter, add a little more sugar. Cool to room temperature.

Pour mixture into shallow nonstick metal baking pan. Freeze until icy around the edges (about 25 minutes). Using a fork, stir the ice crystals into middle of pan.
Freeze, stirring edges into center every 30 minutes, for about 2 hours. Put granita into small bowls and top with whipped cream and grated chocolate.